In the past year, I've somehow managed to visit San Francisco three times, tasting my way through various neighborhoods from the trendy Mission District and Hayes Valley to old-school Italian North Beach and sorta-sketchy Union Square. Last summer, our friend Andrew gave us a hipster tour of fog city on a Friday night, making our way to great bars such as Zeitgeist and the Toronado Pub, which has a staggering number of truly wonderful beers on tap -- despite a complete lack of service. Jay really liked the pizza at Arinell! He said it was possibly the best NY style pizza that he has had on the West coast.
I was impressed by Four Barrel Coffee's java mixologist, who roasts and custom-brews a cup of ethically-sourced coffee from Africa, Indonesia, or South America while you wait beneath a rough-hewn wooden warehouse ceiling for your special joe. After you get your bolt of caffeine, get in line at nearby bakery Tartine. The line can be daunting, but it moves rather quickly, and you will be rewarded with some amazing savory or sweet delectable delight.
Of all the Mexican taquerias on Mission, we really enjoyed the homespun flavor of La Oaxaqueña, well-known for their signature tacos such as ostrich, venison, or chapulines -- made with grasshopper! We tried the mole burrito, a torta, and a tamale. Everything was as good as you would expect it to be. They also let you bring in your own drinks, so stop in the nearby mini mart for your cerveza of choice and let the feast begin!
Earlier this spring, in town for a teaching conference, I made my way through upper Hayes Valley and grabbed a nosh of grass-fed jerky (made with bourbon and blackstrap molasses) at the Fatted Calf Charcuterie. If I lived in San Francisco, I might go broke at a place like this.
I tracked down the elusive Little Skillet in a foodie back alley on Ritch Street, just south of Union Square. Little Skillet is a tasty off-shoot of soul food restaurant Farmer Brown. During a torrential rain storm, I enjoyed my fried chicken and waffle on a tiny counter beneath an awning. I also spotted the Chairman Bao food truck (which wasn't yet open) before heading to Off The Grid on 5th & Minna for some yummy Kung Fu Tacos.
The digestive system does need care when eating out in a new city, and I found wonderful solace in two excellent drinking establishments: one, City Beer -- a store/bar that introduced me to a spring brew called Baby Tree by Boston's Pretty Things; and the other, Samovar Tea. Facing beautiful St. Patrick's Cathedral, Samovar sits atop the Yerba Buena Gardens (gorgeous at night with a lit waterfall) and has a tea-pairing food service from a myriad of cultures. I enjoyed the Chinese service with smoked duck and squash dumplings, alongside an endless pot of Pu-erh tea which lulled me into a contented mind set.
Both of my two favorite meals in San Francisco were Italian -- at 54 Mint in Union Square's former bank building and at Molinari in North Beach. I planned a group meal with colleagues at 54 Mint, where owner Nicola greeted us warmly and the service was great. Tomato risotto croquettes with smoked mozzarella were guilty pleasures beyond measure.
A few blocks north of City Lights Bookstore and fun Beat bar Vesuvio, authentic Italian deli Molinari boasts a rustic store and very particular process for ordering: take a number, choose your bread, order quickly, and grab a seat outside. This is a place that Jay really wanted to try when we visited in the summer. It has been a San Franciscan institution for over 100 years! I chose the Renzo -- smoked turkey, sun-dried tomato, and mozzarella -- and only ate half before walking off my gut bomb on the way back down the hill. I look forward to future eats in San Francisco -- such as Plow, Bocadillos, and Prospect. Until then, there is always Rice-A-Roni.
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